Vung
Tau’s convenient location makes it a great seaside break from Ho Chi Minh City
for those looking for the calm and fresh air the big city lacks. While Vung Tau
might not be on the roster for its outstanding scenery, it is fair to say that
this place is simply a wonderful option for all the boxes it ticks. Local
adventures, worthy beaches, and mouthwateringly fresh seafood... it has it all!

Vung Tau's long coast draws weekenders and travelers
alike. Photo by Lee Starnes.

WHAT TO DO

Enjoy a fine day at the
beach

Bai
Truoc and Bai Sau are typically crowded, touristy beaches as they are more
centrally located to the town proper. Nonetheless, you may want to consider
these two options in case you are not willing to get a ride somewhere else. A
bit further from the downtown area, Chi Linh and Thuy Tien are clean
and spacious beaches that offer enough recreational services to entertain you
for an entire day.

Park yourself under an umbrella to keep your skin from
frying. Photo by Lee Starnes.

Chum up with the locals

Vung
Tau is the actual hometown of many “Saigonese” who flock back in crowds during
their days off to spend some quality time at the beach. The city shores boast a
number of resorts that provide shade, food and drinks to families and friends
looking to spend the day together. There’s an infectious quality to the
camaraderie of Vietnamese locals. My last visit to Vung Tau was one of the best
experiences I’ve ever had in Asia. In search of a beach further away from the
city, we ended up at Long Cung Resort as there were plenty of picnic tables
with cabanas where we could comfortably hang out.

Before
accessing the beach, there are two parking lots to park your motorbike. A fleet
of coracle boats and fishermen cleaning and cooking their catch of the day is
the standard greeting for any beachgoer.

As
soon as my friends and I stepped foot in the sand, we immediately attracted the
attention of every Vietnamese person in sight— the fact being that we were the
only foreigners around. Minutes later, we were sharing a big picnic table,
beers and food with our newfound friends. Vietnamese people are known for their
hospitality towards foreigners. I have experienced these encounters many other
times, but none matched the gusto of this group. We finished countless beer
cans, ate all the food we were offered, and enjoyed the beach until the last
ray of sunlight was gone.

At
the end of the day, we all know it’s not about the place, but the people you
share it with. The beach was not paradise, but those moments were priceless. So
my advice here is: if you are up for a fun time, be adventurous and embrace
these invitations of fellowship whenever they show up. 

Fisherwomen grilling up their catch of the day. Photo by
Natalia Martinez.

Soak up the East Sea from
the arms of Giant Jesus

Considering
Vietnam’s sizeable Christian community and the Vietnamese people’s proclivity
for impressive structures, it’s no wonder that a giant figure of Jesus took
over the top of a hill in one of Vietnam’s main cities. After 800 steps up the
hill where it is located, you reach this 32-metre tall effigy of Christ the
King, considered as one of the world’s biggest.  Ascend the spiral
staircase as if it were a stairway to heaven, with biblical displays flanking
the marble steps, to enjoy the impressive panoramic view of Vung Tau.  

Christ the King invites all newcomers to savour Vung Tau.
Photo by Lee Starnes.

Take a trip back in time

A
history lesson awaits inside the confines of The White Palace. For those
who learn by immersion, this is a wonderful way to familiarise oneself about
Vietnam’s French colonial period. This mansion, with beautiful views of the
bay, was built at the beginning of the 20th century and functioned as a summer
retreat for the then-French governor. It currently houses some 17th
century Chinese vases from a recently discovered shipwreck off the Vung Tau
coast. Another stop that will coax a romantic sigh is the Vung Tau
Lighthouse. Built by the French in 1910, this lighthouse is another great site
for a 360-degree view. The walk to the top of the hill where it is located
takes around half an hour, but there are plenty of cafes where you can break
for a caffeine pick-me-up along the way along the way.

The Vung Tau Lighthouse is a remnant of French
colonialism. Photo by Lee Starnes.

Score some of the freshest
seafood in town

No
trip to Vung Tau is complete without a visit to one of the city’s many
streetside seafood joints. The ocean brings endless varieties of nautical chows
to the shores of Vung Tau. A proper exploration of the narrow alleyways will
reward the curious with the best of the seafood spots—or quan hai san, as
they are known in Vietnamese—with shellfish of any size, colour, and shape. Go
from restaurant to restaurant, plop yourself onto one of the tiny stools, and
get ready to get your hands dirty, all without breaking the bank. On average, a
plate of any kind of seafood—boiled, baked or stir-fried—costs around 40,000
VND (~approx $2.)

What
to order:
The showstopper of any traditional Vietnamese seafood banquet is oc—
freshwater and saltwater snails. Feeling squeamish? When stir-fried in chili
and salt or slathered in garlic butter, you won’t believe you’re eating
snails. Ngheu Hap voi Ot va Xa, also known as steamed clams with
chili and lemongrass, is a simple and heavenly dish, balancing soft and sweet
citrus flavors with a cheeky touch of spice.

To
make the most of this food experience, do as locals do—you know I did!— and
grab some cold beers to wash down all this decadent seafood.  And keep a
loaf of crunchy bread, aka banh mi, to scoop up the leftover
sauces. Waste not, want not.

Steamed clams with lemongrass. Photo by Natalia Martinez.

In search of a good Quan
Hai san

One
thing is true: if the restaurant is packed with locals, it is a good sign.
Vietnamese people love going out for dinner, and seafood tops the list of
social events.  My advice is to follow your gut. Walk around and go with
whatever catches your eye and appetite. However, if you are not that daring
with seafood and are in need of advice, check out the following eateries:

Quan
Oc Phuong Nam  

Spot the tiny stools on the street and watch the crowds devour impressive
amounts of seafood. Do not worry if they don’t speak English; it won’t stop you
for getting your dinner. Just ask for the menu, which comes with near accurate
photos to help you get your message across.

89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Vung Tau

Quan
Oc Noc

Very similar to the aforementioned listing, this shellfish eatery is a tiny,
but popular option among the locals. Don’t forget to try the crab with tamarind
sauce. Truly excellent!

105 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Vung Tau

Gan
Hao

Gan Hao is considered an institution in Vung Tau. Set along the promenade, this
massive restaurant offers great food and an unadulterated view of the sea. Get
there early if you want a front-row seat of the setting sun. During weekends,
that mission gets a bit trickier. Expect prices to be a bit higher than the
average.

3 Tran Phu, Vung Tau

If
seafood isn’t your cup of tea, you won’t be left out! There are other dishes to
pick on the city’s menu like Banh Khọt Goc Vu Sua, the local
specialty.  It’s a simple, but tasty steamed flour cake studded with tiny
dried shrimp. Wrap the cakes in the accompanying bundle of herbs, lettuce and
mustard leaves then dip it in nuoc cham, sweetened fish sauce.

Scallops sprinkled with crushed peanuts. Photo by Natalia
Martinez.

HOW TO GET THERE

Usually
people heading to Vung Tau come from Saigon, and the most common way to reach
it is by bus. It takes around three hours, and they normally offer a
pick-up/drop-off at your hotel. The tickets are no more than $6 one-way,
depending on your company of choice.